Friday, November 5, 2021
Kering's third participation at China international import expo 2021
Galaxy depicting a glorious universe of the group and its houses
Kering and all its houses are engaging in the 2021 China International Import Expo (CIIE) for the third consecutive year. With a determination on depicting a grand universe of its own, the Kering Pavilion is named as the Kering Galaxy, constructed again by Büro Ole Scheeren, an international architecture firm.
Like the solar system, the Kering Galaxy is made up of a central pillar that is the Group which each of its Houses, like planets, live their history, their innovations and their own journey, both independent and interconnected by common ambitions of quality, inventiveness and know-how.
On the central cylinder, Kering’s artistic program Women in Motion, which celebrates the influences of women on art and culture, and its lately successfully launched Women in Motion at West Bund project in China, championing women’s creativity in dance and choreography, is presented.
A meticulously designed video is played on a scroll screen revolving around a timeline and unrolling the history of the group and its houses.
A selection of iconic and timeless pieces of Kering’s Houses are displayed in an art gallery way to present Kering’s vision of luxury: innovation, sustainable and inclusive, enabling self-expression and authenticity.
Gucci highlights its historical heritage through its classic bamboo bag, reappeared in the Aria collection featuring the same silhouette as its original predecessor from 1947. In the midst of a shortage of raw materials such as leather, the founder of the House came up with the idea of making the handle out of bamboo. From its beginnings, this bag has existed with immense success and accompanied many personalities, such as Ingrid Bergman and Vanessa Redgrave.
Saint Laurent long shirt dress was made exclusively for the CIIE 2021. In the late 1960’s, Monsieur Saint Laurent transferred key and basic elements of a menswear wardrobe to womenswear, and was influenced by faraway references. This dress, signature of Saint Laurent, combines a classic men’s shirt with an evening dress in a strong red color which denotes the traditional Chinese red lacquer used by the couturier for the Opium fragrance bottle created in 1977.
Bottega Veneta appears with the Cassette bag, which illustrates precisely the fundamentals of the House, known for the discretion of its style and the luxury of its leather goods. This logo-less bag, "When only your initials are enough" being its philosophy, is nevertheless immediately recognizable by the leather braiding technique, known as Intrecciato, developed in the early 1970s and recently reapplied by the House. This is a perfect example of the durability of real innovations and brand codes; they know how to reinterpret themselves without ever disappearing.
The Balenciaga Structured gown in pink floral-embroidered ivory silk by Maison Lesage is a new interpretation of an archive silhouette from the Summer 1964 collection by Cristóbal Balenciaga. It was presented in the Balenciaga’s 50th couture collection in 2021—the house’s first since its founder retired in 1968. It’s a perfect example of the modernity and timelessness of Cristobal Balenciaga creativity and how savoir-faire keeps alive.
At Alexander McQueen, creative expressions become luxury through the mastery of techniques and nutrition from cultural or social references. This dress is inspired by the English artist of the 18th century, William Blake. It symbolizes the luminosity of life, which arises from the air and the light which always emerges from the dark. This specific item embodies the spirit of McQueen, innovative techniques to modernize historical or arty references, thus the theatricality of an evening dress becomes a modern embroidered T-Shirt. Timeless merges past, present and future.
In 1968, Brioni created its first bespoke travel jacket for an affluent globetrotter. This innovative garment was made originally with sixteen pockets and compartments to store a variety of essential items of gentleman’s travel equipment: a compass, plane tickets and passport, cigars, a journal and watch. The unique jacket soon became an icon for Brioni and has become a staple fixture in the menswear collections. A continuation of the original Travel jacket adapted to the needs of the modern man on the move, with subtle details offering a nod to its origins. Interesting to note that the conscient and smart need of a single client, can concur over time with the need of many.
The Boucheron creation illustrates the modernity of current luxury and the innovative spirit of the House. It is the first living High Jewelry. With the most advanced laboratory in glass research, the creative director has been able to develop a holographic material which, while having the appearance of a precious stone, has the particularity of constantly changing color, like certain flowers which change their appearance depending on their exposure to sunlight. This ring is a living example that luxury craftsmanship is a living notion when it knows how to integrate the most modern technology. This floral ring is also a signature of the House, looking for inspiration in nature at all times. This example fuses the most natural element and the most advanced technology.
The iconic Iconica Bavarole necklace from Maison Pomellato is an illustration that behind each signature object or code of a luxury Maison is a personal vision, innovation and sometimes irreverence. Indeed, when this necklace was created, it went against conventions in jewelry, since it associated different styles and sizes of chains. This is an example that luxury creation feeds on tradition while fighting convention.
Certainly, the piece best represents the quintessence of luxury and the most symbolic spirit of this installation. Before becoming timeless and iconic, each creation is above all an expression based on a vision and a human and authentic intelligence. Qeelin's Wulu necklace embodies all of this：the Wulu collection was revealed to the world on the red carpet of the 2004 Cannes Film Festival when world-renowned film actress Maggie Cheung wore a single Wulu earring, representing a vision of modern Chinese beauty and talent, to receive her Best Actress award. Wulu interprets the mythical powers of the hulu, a Chinese gourd, as a stylish symbol of positivity and hope. Rich with symbolism, the Wulu is traditionally associated with health and success, while its “8” shape invites wealth in Chinese culture. Wulu’s elegantly simple and smooth harmonious lines inlaid with shimmering diamonds elevate the collection to the very height of Qeelin’s philosophy, balance and harmony.
Founded in 1791, Girard-Perregaux is one of the oldest fine watchmaking manufactures still in operation and is appreciated by those in the know. This year the company celebrates its 230th anniversary, a fitting testament to the brand’s watchmaking expertise. Indeed, the firm’s history is dotted with exceptional creations that skillfully blend aesthetics and functionality. These models include the iconic Laureato, born in 1975, as well as the legendary ‘Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges’, a watch that made the invisible visible, transforming bridges from just a technical element to an integral part of the timepiece - a first in watchmaking.
To celebrate its 175th anniversary, Ulysse Nardin takes clockmaking into the realms of imagination by reinventing the chronometer. This UFO might be a table or desk clock, but it is so many other things besides. It’s a swinging mechanical depiction of the movement of the waves. It is a triple-timed zone amalgam of the past, present and future. Once again, Ulysse Nardin has launched something completely unexpected – a new addition to its cabinet of curiosities, inspired by innovation and exploration, the seas and the skies. This UFO contains all of Ulysse Nardin’s horological history in one single object, from the marine chronometers of the 19th and 20th centuries to the Freak in 2001, to the Blast in 2020. It is simply out of this world. To know if creativity will be timeless, it’s like to try to predict the future and the best way to predict the future is to create it.
Today, Kering Eyewear is the most relevant player in the luxury eyewear market segment and this year at CIIE the company returns with a portfolio of nine luxury brands: Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Brioni, Boucheron, Pomellato, and the recently acquired Danish luxury eyewear brand Lindberg.
“Our third participation at CIIE means a lot to both China’s luxury goods sector and the whole world’s. This year, we have curated a combination of the timeless classic and the contemporary iconic of all our houses. We think this unique fusion will give people a perspective on our history, but also our vision of modern Luxury and the values we share with our Houses: creativity, authenticity, sustainability and innovation. For Kering, Luxury is far more than a question of know-how and excellence. It means a commitment to culture, heritage, creation and everything that empowers our imagination. It cares for the planet, with an approach to sustainability that is both ambitious and influential,” Jean-François Palus, Group Managing Director, Kering.
“The CIIE serves our ambition to become the most influential luxury group in the world in terms of creativity, innovation, sustainable development and long-term performance. Kering’s third participation is not simply a belief in China’s market but also a commitment to accomplishing sustainability with our Chinese partners. Innovation and collaboration are crucial if we want to bring new solutions into our business model and transform it deeply. We think that China is a key partner in achieving this goal and inspiring the world. That is why we will continue to collaborate with our Chinese partners to extend an innovative strategy that benefits the development of Chinese society, in line with our motto Empowering Imagination, and we are determined,” said Cai Jinqing, President of Greater China, Kering. Kering will be the Chair of the Sustainable Fashion and Lifestyle Committee organized by CIIE. The Inaugural Meeting of the Sustainable Fashion and Lifestyle Committee will be held on November 7th inside the CIIE Exhibition Hall.
Kering has played a leading role in promoting sustainable luxury with its continuous contribution in the whole industry. In the first half of 2021, Kering released the “Coming Full Circle” report on the group’s strategies for achieving circular economy and the plan of action for its luxury houses. This autumn, Kering has taken the decision on going fur free across its all business, and together with Cartier launched the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 in partnership with the Responsible Jewellery Council. In April this year, Kering, together with the global innovation platform, Plug and Play, announced the second edition of the Kering Generation Award to empower the next generation of Chinese innovators who can develop scalable global solutions for sustainable and ethical luxury. A jury of leading industry figures in the fields of fashion, luxury, entrepreneurship, academia, sustainability and innovation will select the three winning start-ups in December this year.
As a global Luxury group, Kering manages the development of a series of renowned Houses in fashion, leather goods, jewelry and watches: Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Brioni, Boucheron, Pomellato, DoDo, Qeelin, Ulysse Nardin, Girard-Perregaux, as well as Kering Eyewear. By placing creativity at the heart of its strategy, Kering enables its Houses to be more creative and expressive while crafting tomorrow’s Luxury in a sustainable and responsible way. We hold these beliefs in our signature: “Empowering Imagination”.
About Kering Pavilion
This year at the CIIE Shanghai 2021 Kering wanted to highlight the universe and the solar system. After a complicated period for humanity and a constantly changing and sometimes battered world, Kering wanted to emphasize the importance of making a commitment to preserve this universe and illustrate the timelessness of its beauty.